2. Europe

Spain 2007

I have spent the last 9 days in Mallorca and island off the Iberian Peninsula belonging to Spain. The island is considered a Mecca of deep water soloing which they call Psicobloc. Recently what is possibly one of the hardest routes in the world was put up by Chris Sharma on Es Pontas. It is considered to be 5.15a or 9a by Euro standards. Although he does not rate the climbs himself I'm sure the repeats will be few and far between.
I met up with Shasta in Wales and we tooled around that country for a while before deciding to head to warmer areas. Looking at tickets we decided to head to Spain for a week and a half and have some fun at deep water soloing, we had hoped to climb a 7 pitch route on a mountain called Sa Gubia but were set back by lack of gear.
We first arrived and found a bus to S. Arenal where we trying around for a hostel finding one for 30 Euros per night. The hostels here are not your normal hostel as they are bed and breakfasts and proper dorm hostels are pretty much non existent. The beach is 4 miles long and is sand all the way. Besides the sand is thousands of bodies lined on every little area. To me that is not a fun way to spend time so we decided to bail on the crowded beach scene and see if we couldn't find something a little more pleasant. We headed to town called Cala Dòr and had to settle on a an apartment style renting accommodation for the night which was 40 Euros, as cheap as any bed and breakfast was in the area. This was a really nice place with a kitchen and a living room! Still though we knew this was more then we wanted to spend and resolved the next day to finding some proper camping accommodation. We had however heard that it is illegal on the island so figured it could be tuff. We packed our bags for the walk to Cala Sa Nau. We walked to the beach to find a beautiful area surrounded by nice looking climbing. The cliffs got bigger as they went out and there were plenty of areas we could tent.
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So far the driving had been enjoyable. Quick jolts through small Spanish towns, windy roads through the countryside and driving from beach to beach. We decided to head north after Es Pontas having thrilled our selfs long on the west shore. The northernmost point on the island was called Formentor and that sounded like something we wanted to see! We hoped in the car and took the long and very hot drive north. Driving on Formentor itself was incredible! I recently read about some of the most enjoyable drives in the world and it had said that this one road had 24 hairpin turns. We would drive through sections of road that put that to shame. We drove to a point that had a small castle sitting on the top of the hill. The view was astounding and staring at it seemed like the perfect thing to do. Taking a picture took effort, I had to take my eyes from the horizon.
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So far the driving had been enjoyable. Quick jolts through small Spanish towns, windy roads through the countryside and driving from beach to beach. We decided to head north after Es Pontas having thrilled our selfs long on the west shore. The northernmost point on the island was called Formentor and that sounded like something we wanted to see! We hoped in the car and took the long and very hot drive north. Driving on Formentor itself was incredible! I recently read about some of the most enjoyable drives in the world and it had said that this one road had 24 hairpin turns. We would drive through sections of road that put that to shame. We drove to a point that had a small castle sitting on the top of the hill. The view was astounding and staring at it seemed like the perfect thing to do. Taking a picture took effort, I had to take my eyes from the horizon.

mallorcaspain2007mediterranean seaformentor

  • After some jumping of the course the reason we were there was to climb! This was a great route you could follow through the overhang or traverse out the right and over the top. The water was incredibly clear and beautiful and it was hard to climb over the top with the water so inviting.
  • After a day or so there we met with a couple of German guys who were camping on the same beach. They were pretty daring jumpers and climbers and it was nice to climb around with them.
  • Our apartment for the night.
  • Around the corner of Cala Sa Nau
  • We hiked back after spending the night in the apartment. It probably isn't that long but with a 50lb pack on pavement it was starting to feel long. We climbed around for a bit and was having a grand old time. there was a big cliff with a jump probably around 30 to 40 feet. There were two guys from Indiana trying to warm up to the jump off but hadn't yet and as I looked down from it I decided to give a shorter one a go first. Shasta however had other plans. She said "I'm going to do it. Yup here I go", and then our jaws dropped as she walked right off. Her previous highest jump had been around 15 feet. The Indiana guys and I looked at each other with amazement. "She went off like it was nothing" was all they could muster. I felt the need to follow in the footsteps (of course not to be left out) and decided what the heck as I tossed myself out into the water. Theres a certain rush after that first step that is Euphoric and addicting.<br /> Shasta says goodbye to us wimpy men.
  • Shasta described her first jump as something quite pleasurable. So it wouldn't have been easy to keep her from jumping again and again. What else to do but take pictures?
  • We jumped through most of the day and found that our fun in this single area would last about 4 or 5 hours. You can really see the clarity of the water here as I shine through like it was glass with the German looking on. (Taken by Shasta)
  • Moving around the corner from our last climbing spot the sea was a little more ruff and the climbing became harder. This route is rated at 8a and I have often struggled through a 6b. I didn´t get very far before diving off into the deep. (Taken by Shasta)
  • Although this rope looked inviting after the jump to help get onto the rock it was a climb in itself. Not very thick with little knots and soaking wet. It took a fine rest period afterwards to climb again.(Taken by Shasta)
  • We decided after talking to both the Americans and the Germans that getting a rental sounded like a neat idea. I had never driven in a foreign country but the idea didn´t sound to bad. Plus we saw a place that would give us a car for 26 Euros per day with no extra costs. Not to bad we figured if we slept in it instead of trying to find a room. So we went out and got a nice red car which we called Little Red Devil. This would turn out to be one of the best ideas of the trip. Our first stop with our new transportation was Es Pontas. The famed rock area climbed by Sharma. The temptation of climbing on that same piece of rock was much to great and had to be done. I swam out and tried the Sharma route but never got out of the water! Looking overhead at the 7 foot dyno 35 feet above the water was a soft blow to the ego. I knew I couldn't even get close to it. I climbed an easier route which was probably about 5.10 around the corner from it and topped out. I took a jump off the rock which was probably my biggest yet at about 50 feet. Its amazing how the cheering of people in boats gets people doing crazy things. I know somewhere in their collection is a photo of me looking petrified in mid air. Shasta swam out and jumped from the same spot as well leaving her arms out to her side and slapping them real nicely. I looked a little higher, it still wasnt enough. I walked to the top of the route that Sharma had climbed out. I had heard he took falls here of 65 feet. I built all the courage I could muster and went for it. The first step stopped my heart, its that moment of "What the hell am I doing?" and then just concentration as I tried to make sure my feet werent to flat, arms were at my side, and that my face wasn't pointed down. My biggest jump to date.
  • Ive got to hand it to Shasta, shes not going to let me soak it up alone. She went out, climbed up, and flew with the wind.
  • The bay above Es Pontas is beautiful with multicolored waters and towns perched on the bank of the sea.
  • And this is Es Pontas. We left with smiles on our faces and thrills in our hearts.
  • So far the driving had been enjoyable. Quick jolts through small Spanish towns, windy roads through the countryside and driving from beach to beach. We decided to head north after Es Pontas having thrilled our selfs long on the west shore. The northernmost point on the island was called Formentor and that sounded like something we wanted to see! We hoped in the car and took the long and very hot drive north. Driving on Formentor itself was incredible! I recently read about some of the most enjoyable drives in the world and it had said that this one road had 24 hairpin turns. We would drive through sections of road that put that to shame. We drove to a point that had a small castle sitting on the top of the hill. The view was astounding and staring at it seemed like the perfect thing to do. Taking a picture took effort, I had to take my eyes from the horizon.
  • The mountains sloped down to kiss the sea. Whatever your passion you would find it here.
  • Looking down the rest of Formentor we could see large towering walls begging for climbing and seas yearning for a good dip. It was almost to much to take in at once.
  • Although it must have been unfortunate to have to sit in an extremely small fort it doesn't appear that the view was to bad. There have been worst places to spend the days.
  • Driving and winding our way around, over, and through the mountains until we reached the northernmost point, a lighthouse spilling its blessing to the sailors. I road was some of the most fun I have ever had driving. What can match flying around hairpin corners in a car not to much bigger then a mini
  • From the lighthouse the Sea took on another life. There were lots of people there but they all seem to float away. You can look out at the sea and it is there that they cannot touch you. We wanted to get a find a good place to see the sunset and decided on back at the castle. The sun was setting fast though and it was a good drive back through those turns; would I make it? I should have been timed, we had time to spare.
  • Enough in fact that we stopped on the way to take pictures of the cliffs. They are enormous and definatly have multi pitch routes and abilities. The climbing on the island is more then one person could do.
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